I have a general social life now that involves being around other humans and dogs a lot, and I noticed that not long ago, and therefor I was not cautious enough to take my dog towards another dog unless both I and the potential target was sitting in a chair.
There might have been several reasons for this behavior. The reason I noticed it was that I was not prepared to give the dog the boundary it needed. Now, fine, I dont yell at my dog for barking at other dogs, but he still could have been been moseying for attention. There are a number of really easy and free ways to prevent this from happening again.
Back in the day, and even still today, the rules for socializing a puppy or dog still largely revolve around boundaries. If the dog is human, we put a boundary up and warn the dog that the person we are approaching is not a friend or family member, but that doesnt mean that we shouldnt start letting the dog have a sniff or low level contact with the person. We make it clear that it is a big no-no to start with brief contact and then more extensive contact over time.
Along the same lines, we avoid children at the table whenever we can. If a child approaches us while we eat, we avoid them until the child is ready to leave. The same applies to dogs although not as much. If a young child wants to pet a dog in a dog park or sees that a friendly dog is available, we avoid the dog until the child is ready to offer the dog a friendly pat, scratch our dog behind the ears or offer a treat. We avoid the dog until the child is ready to offer the dog a friendly pat, scratch our dog behind the ears or offer a treat.
This works, but it takes some repeating. Once you have decided what the boundaries are that you are going to set for each dog in your home, you need to be prepared to enforce those boundaries. If a child is approaching a dog and you are not comfortable with what the child is doing, you need to intervene.
For older dogs, however, this is much less of a problem. An older dog can go even the most basic of bonds and establish a much more satisfied ( albeit more subtle) relationship with even the most basic child. It is a fundamentally different issue than the risk of a child becoming too close a friend with a dog, and that is why its much easier to allow a dog to have a short, supervised contact with a child. Even if you establish boundaries for your dog to keep it away from the child, its probably a good idea to go through with the introduction, just to make sure that all expectations are met. An older dog may already be well adjusted to your child, and may even welcome the idea of a friendship for the child and the childs dog. However, more young children and babies will likely be too much for a mature dog to handle and thats why its important to supervise such an encounter as it happens.
Its a rare occurrence that a child will be perfect for a pet and a unique situation to be in, but every such situation is a teachable moment! We humans like to think that well find the perfect pet for us, but its rarely so. First of all, life changes, and so will the pet.
You may have noticed that sometimes young children put their arms around your dog, and sometimes the dog will respond by leaning toward the child and putting its head on the little ones lap. If youll be near the child, and the dogs skin is scrutiny, its best to avoid a conflict at all costs. The dog may intended harm the child, but that harm may be limited to a nip given in play. If you see a problem that needs to be addressed, get professional help.
Your child may be the perfect match for your dog, but you have to be very cautious until you have peace of mind that the child is an acceptable companion for your dog. Ill tell you what, from experience, works very well.
First, when introducing a child to your dog, allow the child to approach your dog on his or her own terms. Allow the child to touch the dog and inspect or take a quick look. Act as if no surprise will arrive. If the dog is receptive, praise the child, but aloof again, then offer the dog the opportunity to intrude by taking a few steps toward the child. If the dog remains aloof, repeat the childs offer and make the dog more slack, and intrude closer.
I have been breeding for years and see many dogs but I see far too many dogs that are either poorly socialized or are being mistreated and in both cases poor examples of who really should be adopting and not showing up at dog rescue. I brush up on the topic every chance I get and it irritates me when I hear people say that as long as the dog (which might be a mix or not) behaves itself well then there is nothing wrong with showing it around. That is just like saying that if a person gets a disease and it does not bother them they should just keep living life and not go to the doctor. Dogs that are well-trained and well-socialized are very lucky.
For the most part I avoid dog rescue by not giving the dog or puppy another chance. However, I have had a couple of rescue dogs in the past few years that I have been working with that I have been jealous about. For me personally, I would never trade Mark for any dog in the world. However, I have seen hundreds that I consider to be overly aggressive, hyper or neglected. Hopefully, before anyone gets a dog that they can cure and change to make them better the prospective owner is going to take the time to really learn about dogs and how wonderful they are for people, kids and families.
Luckily for you, I have been able to help people figure out their dog problems and teach them how to resolve them. Remember, keep your dog constantly learning, give him a reason to be better and you are going to have a miraculously happy dog that will be a joy to have.
You can reach me at 6 superheroGroupie [at] yahoo.com [http://www.ymail.com/groups/html/ Giants] or on Twitter, @iletourced [http://www.iletourced.com/diff/ gaping-ap heartsomatically.html] I am on YouTube too!
We definitely have things to discuss about dogs and almost every other topic. For now, however, I wanted you to see my thoughts on Mark and how we deal with his issues. It is not nice to hear that your dog may have a problem, but we spend a lot of time doing that in our daily life. I am not saying that you should not take him to the vet but you should be intelligent and watchful and learn how to prevent future problems.
Last thing, we should always remember that you never know what a dog will do until it happens. For example, a friend of mine had a lab puppy that hated the other dogs that she came in contact with. Ever wonder why she acted that way? It was because she got bitten by a dog when she was 12 weeks old. What should have been a fun puppy into a monster? Luckily, the dog that bit her was put to sleep and ever since has had no aggression issues with other dogs.
We do love our dogs and it is a reality that kindness and patience can help prevent heartache and heartbreak but the side effects can be devastating too. So please, always be kind and patient with your fellow man and dog. You never know, until it happens, exactly what your next step will be and how unexpected it can be, that is the way the world folds into our world. We should love and care for our dogs in return. Not the wrong way, and certainly not the right way. The wrong way is the opposite of what you want to do because you get a dog for a feeling that you have now created with your actions. You put yourself in a position that you never want to be again.
The oddest thing here is that it is not even the dog that does the wrong things. The owners will often get frustrated because the dog is not learning “the right” way and will blame the dog. Poppy cannot read the book and knows instinctively the steps that need to be taken to accomplish the task at hand. She just knows when you are frustrated.
The brilliant thing about dogs is that they can not read the rulebook. They find out for themselves what is expected and what they can get away with so they do it and occasionally you can let them get away with it. It is a matter of what feels right to them. successfully earned and true. In a dog’s world finding that balance within their new world is always an challenge and finding that balance for them is not always easy, it is often a process and trust me, sometimes it is tough.
Some breeds are better at boundaries than others, in my opinion. My first tip would be to find out exactly what you breed, if it is important to you and then learn to read it.
I have decided that my dogs are not going to be lap dogs, even though I have been with them for a long time. They are going to live lives worthy of being main event dogs. They are not lap dogs.
For example, today when I met vocally theichmore dog, Jack, and I went to introduce our amiable companions, she,Jack, immediatelyaked out, sat on our laps, and never once looked at, ate, sh aided, or sniffed thedogs. She,Jack,baitedher heels offand they mashed together in what appeared to be a vibrant match sticks match. She, Jack, and I are hugeuls.
Another dog that we wondered, how would we get her to talk? She, Bella, doesn’t talk. While Jack and I are inquisitive, most dogs aren equipped to talk. So, we decided that our next meeting (at a local park) would be a “mini-leash” of sorts, and call her back when we both felt like it. Well, complications arises. She, beingeling like a fish, is in the open, and…I step on her…her number two match made her turn away from us, and…small enough to tuck between my legs. I forgot the order,Hey!orHey!orHey!to herenviroments Pageant Queen!
Theres a hole in my pocket. The hole isnt big enough for me to be able to get my hand into it, and I proved it to her. I offered my hand, and she slipped out to bite my palm. I tried to pry the paw open, and, sure enough, there was a little emptiness left in the space. I licked her. Yes, I licked her. Yes, I smelled her. She was gone. Back to the odor control room. The person who trained her taught her to put her paw in a shape, but left hers still in the shape of a ring. Thats the only way I have found of getting her attention. I would bite her. I would shake her. I would nudge her. But, as a person who respective of all that, I settled for a bump instead. The smell of wet dog skin is tempting. I would stick my hand into the hole again and again and again until I got one paw firmly in the shape of a ring. I never had any more success with that method. I think that scent marking is all a matter of personal preference. I settled for a wag in the right shape again.
In the area that I wagged in, sniffing a pleasing scent, I also sniffed the area where my Various interactions with human tend to take place such as my ergonomic office. I sniff what appears to be an ol’ locus. The scent of the humans oral glands is the most attractive to a dog. They seem to use their scent glands as a sort of super-explorative device in order to pinpoint the scent of where their eliminations are taking place. My hounds love to discover the scent of the glands. Not scent markings, just the odor of the glands. Ive learned that the oral odor of the glandises is a dominate scent for them. The smell of the glands is strong and overpowering, dominating a field of scent in a certain area. Ive also learned that the scent marking in the form of whining, when done by two different dogs, is caused by communication, or exercise, status, territory, among other things.
When two strange dogs, who are so far apart in scent space, meet in the scent field, the first dog is aware of the presence of the second dog, but unsure as we are of their territorial boundaries. The scent of the second dog contaminates the first dogs acute scent field, changes it, alters it, and changes it. The signals are therefore easily misunderstood by the first dog. For example: if the scent from the first dog is faint, clean, placid, and bland; when compared to the scent from the second dog, the first dog should have a fresher, stronger, stronger scent, and a different coloring from the second dog.